Cigliuti “Langhe Nebbiolo”
Piedmont , Italy | 2020
If you are like me, then no matter what time of the year, you love to drink Nebbiolo. Hailing from Piedmont, this grape is arguably Italy’s most prized red variety. From its famed appellations of Barolo and Barbaresco, the best of the regions wines command prices that don’t make them “everyday wines.” The insider trick to finding great value Nebbiolo is to look for wines labeled “Langhe Nebbiolo.” Examples from top producers in the region can be exemplary, and also not break the bank.
Cigliuti is one of the great small producers of the Barbaresco DOCG, located just outside the village of Neive. In total, the family owns a mere 18.5 acres of vines, nearly 15 acres in the famed cru of Serraboella, and the other 3.5 acres in the equally famous Bricco di Neive. From these vineyards, they produce a mere 30,000 bottles annually.
The history of Cigliuti extends back over four generations. A little over five years ago, sisters Claudia and Silvia Cigliuti formally took over the domaine from their father and mother, Renato and Dina. Renato produced his first vintage of Barbaresco in 1964. Even at that time, he was focused on quality over quantity, something that his winemaking neighbors couldn't understand. It was a very different time in 1964, when small farmers struggled to make a living from growing grapes, but that didn't stop Renato from understanding that quality matters.
Renato and Dina, having only two daughters, didn't expect them to want to be involved in the family winery, so it was purposefully kept small. What happened is the exact opposite: Claudia and Silvia are among the most dedicated wine people I know. If you visit Cigliuti, you should probably check the vineyards first if you want to find Claudia.
The main reason the best producers are considered so great is that they happen to own pieces of the greatest vineyards. Terroir is the most important factor in great wine, and Cigliuti is fortunate to work solely in the two most famous crus of Neive, Serraboella and Bricco di Neive.
Which brings me to the great value Langhe Nebbiolo from Cigliuti. This wine is produced from 20-year-old vines in the Bricco di Neive cru in Barbaresco, and it is vinified much like the Barbaresco. It is fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and then aged for five months, partially in steel and partially in Slavonian oak.
Medium to full bodied, with cherry, wild strawberry, flowers, marzipan, fennel, and spice notes. This wine combines both power and elegance, fruit and earth, with such precision and "deliciousness." Try it with meat-based pasta sauces and grilled meats.