Domaine Viret “Renaissance”
VIN DE FRANCE , France | 2017
If you are as much of a fan of Biodynamic wines as I am, then buckle your seatbelts because this wine is going to make biodynamic farming look like a middle school science project. Welcome to Alain and Phillippe Viret’s cosmic winemaking world of “Cosmoculture”. Though the Viret family has owned these 35 hectares of vines since 1917 and have abided by Rudolf Steiner’s strictures for Biodynamic farming, it wasn’t until 1999 that this father-son team took Steiner’s principles to another level.
The Viret domaine rests on an ancient Roman quarry in the Southern Côtes du Rhône appellation of Saint Maurice sur Eigues. The winery and the walls surrounding the property are built from the same yellow stone that make up the quarry itself. Even the amphorae and concrete used in fermentation and aging are all made using this same ancient rock.
Cosmoculture in general focuses on listening closely to Earth’s natural energy fields known as “telluric currents” by utilizing crystals, rock formations akin to stonehenge, and specially shaped vine rows that match the shape of energy emitted from the planets, the moon, and from within the soil itself. A form of acupuncture is even used in this very arid region where wooden staffs are placed in the ground at specific spots to act as a guide for water from the underground spring! Baffling.
“Renaissance” is a zero-sulfur blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Carignan coming from various plots on the domaine that then ferment in concrete vats with a very long 45-day maceration, and then aged an additional two years in concrete tanks. The product is otherworldly. The flavors are so ripe and layered that it commands a minute of silent meditation to fully immerse in all of the wine’s nuances. This blend shows powerfully ripe dark fruit like cassis and boysenberry, cured leather, black olives and an array of various herbs and spices that linger well into the finish.
There is so much attention to detail that goes into this form of winemaking that it’s one of the very few 100% natural wines that can age for many years. Phillippe in fact cellars 10% of his harvests specifically to release later to show their true potential. This wine going into its 6th year is a spectacular flavor journey now but will evolve beautifully if you want to visit it in a few more years. Perhaps best to drink beside your favorite crystals and during a fruit day on the Biodynamic calendar just to be on the safe side!
If you’re pairing this wine with food, I’d recommend something hearty and flavorful like a Boeuf Bourgignon or a well spiced kidney bean chili.