Domaine Brendan Stater-West
SAUMUR BLANC, FRANCE | 2023
Many of you may be looking at the producer’s name of this wine and wondering why it’s not more French-sounding, and it’s because the winemaker is in fact not French. Brendan Stater-West is all American hailing from Eugene, Oregon, and over the last decade has been making waves throughout the Loire Valley for his exquisite Chenin Blancs that are every bit perfected in style and quality as any native French winemaker could achieve.
Brendan’s journey began with a chance encounter in a Parisian wine shop, where the purity of the world-famous Romain Guiberteau’s Loire Chenin Blanc, particularly the iconic “Brézé,” ignited a lifelong devotion to the grape. Determined to immerse himself in the craft, Stater-West relocated to the Loire Valley and tirelessly pursued an apprenticeship under Guiberteau. After two years of persistence and unwavering dedication, Guiberteau finally agreed to mentor Brendan to get him to stop pestering him. By 2015, Brendan’s hard work paid off when his mentor offered him a hectare of Chenin Blanc vines in Guiberteau’s prestigious Les Chapaudaises terroir. This month’s Saumur Blanc selection draws from the vineyard’s lower section, delivering a vibrant wine layered with chalky florals, crisp green apple, and chiseled citrus notes.
The winemaking process for his Saumur Blanc reflects Brendan’s commitment to reflecting the purity of Saumur’s limestone soils. The grapes are whole-bunch-pressed and wild-fermented in stainless steel tanks, with no undue intervention. A six-month aging period on lees contributes a textural depth that balances its electric acidity and pronounced minerality. The 2023 vintage, though shaped by challenging conditions, showcases Brendan’s skill in crafting a wine that stands shoulder-to-shoulder with Guiberteau’s own acclaimed Saumur Blancs. Its razor-sharp freshness and layered complexity make it not just a reflection of Brendan’s expertise, but also a celebration of the terroir’s unique character.
Brendan’s rise is a remarkable story of persistence and vision. He has recently grown his domaine to just over 2 hectares that encompass multiple parcels, including the legendary Brézé vineyards. Guided by sustainable and organic practices, he works tirelessly to enhance soil health, employing techniques like cover cropping and composting to ensure the vitality of his vines. The 2023 Saumur Blanc is not merely a wine; it’s a narrative of Brendan’s dedication to one of my all-time favorite white varietals! This bottle allows you to experience the culmination of Brendan’s journey from simple Parisian wine enthusiast to a rising star in the Loire Valley. I’d recommend pairing it with moules marinière or Beillevaire’s 30-month aged Comte.