Cadre “Band of Stones”
Edna Valley, california | 2021
Just as I was mentioning with the Neyrand Gamay before, this is yet another one of those wines that go against the grain. Typically, when we think Grüner Veltliner, we immediately go to to Austria as the birthplace of this varietal. As goes for most of Le Midi wines, we like to be as playful and perplexing as possible, and when we find a wine we love that is also not “classic”, we jump on it.
Though it is true that certain grape varietals perform better in specific appellations where they are considered indigenous, many times you find instances where these same varietals can shine equally as bright elsewhere. The Edna Valley and in Central Coast California is one of the sleeper appellations that not many California wine lovers think of often, but which quietly produces wines of extraordinary quality. Edna Valley is the coolest AVA (temperature-wise, and arguably Beatnik lingo-wise) in all of California which has inspired winemakers to introduce varietals that fare best in cooler climates. Grüner Veltliner happens to be one of these breeds that likes lots of sunshine but also needing to be kept cool and dry to represent itself at its best. Just like the most lauded regions in Austria, Edna Valley has exactly these two things to allow Grüner to shine but with a distinct maritime climate and coastal soil to distinguish itself from other Grüners.
In the 1970s, the famous Paragon Vineyard was planted by the grandfather of Cadre’s current owner John Niven. After spending many years assisting in his family’s wineries, they were eventually sold off in the 1990s allowing John and his wife Lucy to focus on their passion: white varietals that focus on minerality and energy. They chose Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, and Grüner Veltliner as their three choices and from there created Cadre Winery. Just as the winery’s name implies, this is a small focus brought together by a small group – or a cadre. The cuvée name “Band of Stones” is a head-nod to the ancient rich and various soil types that pepper Edna Valley’s coast.
Coming from SIP Sustainably Certified 15-year-old vines in the southwestern flanks of the historic Paragon Vineyard, “Band of Stones” is pure electricity and concentration wrapped in one perfect package. Despite many of John’s contemporaries thinking he was crazy for attempting growing Grüner, one can see from the national accolades alone that he made the right choice. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, the nose and palate are reminiscent of its Austrian counterpart but with a distinct ripeness and fruit presence that is indicative of the California sunshine: white rose and orange pith builds the nose while both tart citrus and ripe tropical fruits co-mingle aside white pepper and spice to round out this sensational palate. Pair with poached buttered lobster tail or a charred romaine and mandarin orange salad with a white wine vinaigrette.