Benoit Cantin “La Grande Côte”
Irancy, france | 2018
Let’s face it: Burgundy is expensive, especially the good stuff. As a wine buyer, one of my greatest challenges is finding wines that are both exceptional and that are priced accordingly. As Burgundy prices continue to soar higher than the region’s northern latitude, this task becomes trickier. Climate change hasn’t been kind to Burgundy’s already temperamental weather situation, reducing yields and driving prices up, often without a corresponding increase in quality. So, when you stumble upon a great Burgundy that’s also affordable, you grab it quickly. Irancy is one of these hidden sub-appellations within Burgundy currently producing striking Pinot Noirs that won’t make your wallet cringe like when going into the Côte d'Or.
Benoit Cantin’s 2018 "La Grande Côte" is a wonderful single-vineyard bottling from the Cantin family who have been the vineyard stewards for generations. The current 5th generation winemaker Benoît, who doubles as the local hunting club leader, is a highly respected member of the tight-knit Irancy winemaking community which consists of a mere handful of other vignerons. He is considered a force to be reckoned with due to his bombastic laugh and penchant to throw some great impromptu dinner parties for his visitors.
The Irancy appellation shares the same Kimmeridgian limestone soils as Chablis as it rests within the same départment, adding a unique flinty flair to its Pinot Noir. Perched on a steep, south-facing hillside, “La Grande Côte” parcel produces wines with remarkable ageability, structure, and complexity, making it a standout in northern Burgundy. The 2018 vintage was also a markedly warm one which was very beneficial to the grapes’ phenolic ripening in such an overall cool-climate region.
The 4000 bottle production of “La Grande Côte” is showing beautifully right now. Boasting a vigorous, brambly profile with notes of sour plum, rose petal, fig, and a touch of gun smoke, it was aged in 228L oak barrels (15% new oak coming primarily from the family’s own estate’s trees), this wine promises depth and longevity that belies its price point of $38. The Cantin family’s passion for winemaking is evident in every bottle, and their commitment to tradition and organic farming practices shines through. The 2018, with its delicate crimson hue, fresh red cherry & crushed strawberry aromas, and vibrant, complex finish, is a stellar example of cool climate Pinot Noir with a bit of muscle. It’s drinking beautifully now and will only get better with age. Pair it with a miatake mushroom stir fry or chicken paillard with fresh tomatoes and shaved asiago cheese.