Bucci

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI, ITALY |  2022

In my humble opinion, Verdicchio is Italy’s greatest white grape varietal. Grown in the Marche, this overlooked region sits along the Adriatic, with Abruzzo to the south and Romagna to the north. The influence of both the sea, as well as the Apennine Mountains plays a role in the delicate balance of richness and freshness of the varietal. 

There are many excellent producers of Verdicchio in the Marche, but perhaps none as famous as Ampelio Bucci, owner of Bucci winery in Ostra Vetere. The Bucci family have been farmers in the region since the 1700’s. Their property today is 360 hectares in total, a mixture of different types of crops, including wheat, sunflowers, olives, corn and of course grapes. 31 of those hectares are planted to Verdicchio, as well as red grapes such as Sangiovese and Montepulciano. 

The Bucci family has began bottling their own wine in 1983, and since 1999 they have been certified organic. Not only is the farming at Bucci meticulous, but they work with older vines, with an average age of 50 years. The rootstock is all selection massale from their own vine nursery, and Bucci only uses their own fruit, they never purchase. 

If there was a wine to know Villa Bucci by, it would be their excellent entry level Verdicchio value. Made entirely from the varietal, the grapes come from several vineyards, a mixture of south, north and east facing vines. The grapes are vinified separately, then later blended to achieve the most balanced and fresh style possible. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness, and it is moved into 50 to 75 hectoliter French and Slavonian oak barrels for four months. 

The 2022, which was a slightly richer vintage, still shows text book Verdicchio aromas and flavors of yellow apple, citrus zest, almond and chamomile. It has wonderful texture, but still with snappy acidity. A classic pairing with steamed clams, but can also work alongside simple roast chicken.