António Madeira “Vinhas Velhas” Tinto

DÃO, Portugal |  2019

António Madeira’s wines are among the best that show the immense potential of the Dão region and the outstanding values that come from there. Antonio, who is French and of Portuguese descent, works with vineyards found on free-draining granite soils of the Serra do Estrela, the highest mountain range in Portugal. He believes the heart of Dão lies in this mountainous region, and that the fine, fresh, mineral wines you can produce here—which he refers to as the grands crus of the Dão highlands—have great aging potential. He started researching the region in earnest in 2010 and discovered plots of old vines of native varieties. This viticultural heritage, combined with the granite soils and excellent sun exposures, makes these sites distinct. He found a neglected 50-year-old vineyard in the Serra da Estrela foothills, which he recuperated and used to produce his first wine in 2011. He farms organically and works with too many grape varieties to name. All his wines are field blends and cofermented, as he believes that if they were planted that way, it was for a reason.

The “Vinhas Velhas” red is made from fruit selected from ten small parcels, planted on the classic granite soils of the region and farmed biodynamically. The vines range in age from 50 to 100 years. Each parcel is vinified separately. Fermentation is carried out in open lagares, and the wines are blended after ageing in older French and Austrian oak. The red varieties in the field blend are typically Baga, Jaen, and Tinta Amarela (more than 15 other local varieties are in the mix as well). Bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Wonderful aromatics of dark plum, orange peel, and savory herbs on the nose and palate. The wine is medium-plus bodied, with well integrated tannins and excellent length. This is a great pairing for grilled lamb chops that have been marinated in garlic and herbs.