La Colombera “Bricco Bartolomeo”
COLLI TORTONESI, ITALY | 2021
Nestled in the rolling hills of Piedmont’s Colli Tortonesi, La Colombera’s "Bricco Bartolomeo" showcases a unique beauty and depth of Cortese, an ancient grape with an incredibly long history in Italian winemaking. Historically cherished for its bright acidity and delicate flavors, Cortese thrives in southeastern Piedmont, particularly in the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. The grape is best known for its role in the famed wines of Gavi, but here, in the Colli Tortonesi, it finds a unique expression with added depth and vibrancy. With a sunnier exposure and old vines, this quieter varietal balances its freshness with remarkable complexity and verve.
La Colombera, led by Elisa Semino, has long been a champion of native grape varieties, particularly Timorasso, which has become a local legend due to its incredible aging potential and Chablis-like minerality. Though Timorasso may be the estate’s most celebrated variety, their work with Cortese, Croatina, and Barbera is equally compelling. Their organic farming practices and minimal intervention winemaking goes far beyond the vineyards. The Semino family farm is a thriving ecosystem, cultivating chickpeas, wheat, peaches, cherries, and acacia, embodying a holistic approach to agriculture. Whether you’re a longtime lover of Piedmontese wines or new to the world of Colli Tortonesi, "Bricco Bartolomeo" is a beautiful introduction to the potential intensity of Cortese when grown outside of its natural habitat.
Aromas of ripe apricots and nectarines intertwine with crisp gala apples and honeydew, delivering a refreshing and textured palate. A hint of dried hay and delicate herbs evokes the rustic Italian charm, while an unexpected yet welcome note of seashell lingers. This is a weekday quaffer that’s full of energy and elegance, offering a balance that makes it an ideal companion for seafood or light creamy pastas.